Meet 92-Year-Old Shred Lord, Nancy

Words and photos by Julie Chandelier 

When I first heard about this 92-year-old woman who still surfs, I knew I was in for something special.

A Kiwi grandmother of seven, Nancy is not your usual nonagenarian—she’s a living legend who has always loved the ocean, learning to surf decades ago with her children who are now keen surfers. She has never learnt to stand up, but she loves catching waves on her foam board, a 1970’s model that belonged to her son.

I met her at her local beach in Sumner, Christchurch during the winter of 2021, while taking some behind the scenes photos for my friend Anna Pearson’s short film based on Nancy  (a must watch!). When I saw her for the first time on the beach, walking with confidence in her short-sleeve wetsuit—hunching forward a little—and holding her foam board with such ease, I immediately liked her.

We chatted for a few minutes before heading out in the water. She was all smiles, looking at the horizon to find the ‘best waves’. I asked if she was cold, to which Nancy responded with a big smile and shrug, saying, ‘I’m ok, it looks nice out there!’

While Anna was filming her, I started capturing details of her hands and feet (she looked cold already), and her board while she was getting ready for a wave. Despite the fact the water was just 14 degrees, she never mentioned it, instead talking about how she really enjoys the strong waves, not the ‘little ones that stop too quick’, and loves ‘the energy they bring’.

Watching Nancy catch waves on her belly, it made me feel light and present. She was so happy, like a carefree kid. Spending time with Nancy in the water was special, but it was her attitude and outlook on life that really stuck with me. After meeting Nancy that day, I decided to work on a photo essay about her. I built my relationship with her, meeting with Nancy again at her house a few months later to find out more about her surfing journey and life in general.

Nancy has been a vegetarian for many years, been on a sugar-free diet since a young age, and has made a real difference to many working as a teacher and music tutor. At 92-years, old, she’s living proof that positivity and spending time outdoors can prolong life. I still regularly hang out with her at her local beach while she surfs.